The Treasures of Ghost Ranch
Ghost Ranch, now an
educational retreat center in the isolated Piedre Lumbre badlands of
northern New Mexico, is famous for two things: a dinosaur and an
artist. The burgundy red hills with grey stripes are fascinating to
paleontologists because the 200-million-year-old streambeds hold a treasure trove of Triassic dinosaur
bones. Since the 1930's they have excavated the "blueprint" bipedal carnivorous dinosaur Coelophysis, VanCleavea, and the 20-ft long
crocodilian phytosaur (perhaps the source of the local legend of
Vivaran, the huge carnivorous snake.) Those same hills would ensnare the
20th century artist Georgia O'Keeffe: after one visit in 1934, she
knew this was her creative home, and she lived and painted here for the
next 50 years. She would paint Pedernal, the flat ridged mountain 10
miles visible to the southeast, 28 times, saying that "God said if I
painted it enough I could have it."
But the
story of Ghost Ranch is so much more. From cattle rustling in the
1880s to movie making in the 1980s and beyond, from a close connection
to the scientists at Los Alamos, to visits from Charles Lindbergh (who
shot aerial photographs for local archeologists), from conservation efforts to an impromptu piano recital from Leopold Stokowski, the remote
sanctuary of Ghost Ranch, with its wild geology, has enchanted and summoned people
from all walks of life. For 30 years a dude ranch for the elite Easterners, this
magical place is now home to artists, poets, scientists,
environmentalists, hikers from the Continental Divide Trail, campers,
and people who want to escape the stresses of modern living. Is the
treasure of Ghost Ranch it's dinosaur skeletons, the olla of gold buried
and lost by the cattle rustling Archuleta brothers, the hundreds of
paintings by Georgia O'Keeffe, or the shining mica of its mesas,
shimmering in the moonlight? And will those treasures survive the politics and poor management of the 21st century?
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